THE NAP or PILE in all woolen cloths should invariably run toward the bottom of the garment. (Fig. 177.) The cutting line of perforations in the patterns, and the directions for their use must be carefully followed. In waists and skirts that are to be cut bias, special instructions for placing the cutting perforations are given with the pattern. Fig. 178 shows a pattern laid on material that has no nap.

When Velvet or Plush or any velvet material except panne velvet is used, the pile should run upward, just as the pile of the fur does in a garment of sealskin. When in these fabrics the pile runs upward its tendency is to fall outward, thus bringing out and enhancing its depth of color; while when the pile runs downward it is more liable to flatten, just as fur will when stroked, and its richness and intensity of color are rendered less apparent, and therefore less effective.

Panne velvet, the one exception to the above rule, should be cut with its pile running downward.

In Adjoining Sections, great care should be taken to have the nap or pile run in the same direction. Otherwise the different reflections of light caused by the varying directions of the nap will make the garment appear as if made of two shades of goods.

An Irregular Plaid can rarely be used on the bias, consequently the ways of making it up are limited. A dress made of irregular plaid requires more material than one made of regular plaid. The darkest stripes should run across the bottom with the lighter tones up, as the shading in this direction is better.

It must always be borne in mmd throughout the cutting, that all pieces of the pattern, or lining, must be placed with the upper part in the direction for the top of the material. An amateur had better use an even plaid.

The most satisfactory results are obtained by folding the material and pinning through both thicknesses as for a seam, then turning over on the right side and noting the effect. In this way it

may be easily ascertained which stripe, plaid or figure it will be best to use for the center of the front and back, respectively. Be careful, in replacing the goods, not to lose the original position.

Fashion Design Drawing - Cutting Materials Sponging 1.jpg

THE PLAID WAIST should be cut in as few

pieces as possible and can be made either on the straight or the bias of the material. Match the heavy lines wherever the waist is joined, either at the under-arm or shoulder.

Fashion Drawing Sections

Part-1 Part-2 Part-3