Fashion Design Drawing

ing. (Fig. 157.) If the hem is not allowed on the pattern the edge is brought over to the line of perforations, where it is basted and stitched. The center of the plait is brought over to the line of stitching forming the box plait, and is then basted in position. To the raw edge under the plait, stitch a lengthwise strip of material cut to extend to within one-quarter of an inch of the outer edge of the plait, to form the fly for the buttonholes. Hem the free edge of the strip against the line of sewing. Instructions for the most suitable finish for each garment will be found on the pattern. The button side of the garment can be finished with a hem or an underlap. (Fig. 158.) A Yoke can be joined to the front of a dress as shown in Fig. 159 on the following page. Cut the yoke and turn the edge under a seam's width, clipping the edge where necessary to make it lie flat. Baste the yoke over the top of the front of the dress. To the wrong side, baste a bias strip of material with its edges turned under. Place two rows of stitching across the yoke, stitching from the outside. They will catch through the bias facing that is basted underneath, and which covers the seam, making a neat finish on the inside. This finish is desirable for a summer dress, as it makes it unnecessary to line the yoke. If a lining is used, however, it is cut like the yoke pattern, and the top of the dress portion is en-

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closed between the turned-under edges of the yoke and its lining.

Sleeves are made in various ways. They may be gathered at the wrist and set into a cuff or wristband, or the lower part of the sleeve may be stitched in plaits forming its own cuff. After laying the plaits according to the pattern instructions, baste them flat to the sleeve and stitch through both plait and sleeve. Stitch the seam of the sleeve at the openings, with the extensions beyond the edges of the seam. On the front edge this extension is turned under for a hem, and on the other extension a tiny hem is turned in along the upper end and the long side. This extension is meant for an underlap. Underface the wrist as shown in Fig. 161. Close the opening with buttons and buttonholes. (Fig. 162.)

A Cuff, if one is used, is made of two pieces of material cut from the cuff pattern. These two pieces are basted together, with the right sides facing each other. The stitching is made close to

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the edge, and runs around the two ends and the lower edge. The cuff is then turned right side out and carefully basted so that the stitching will come in the crease. Join the upper edge of the cuff portion to the lower edge of the sleeve, with the seam toward the outside. The other cuff portion is turned under and basted over the seam. Stitching at the edges, around all four sides, finishes the cuff.

Buttons and buttonholes are also used in closing the cuff, which is made to Jap the width of the extension. Fig. 160 shows the cuff basted to the sleeve in preparation for stitching. If the sleeve has a box plait extending to the top, gather the sleeve from the edges of the plait to the notches, but do not gather the sleeve across the box plait.

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A French seam is the best finish for all lightweight cottons, but for heavy cotton and wool materials the armhole seams must be either bound or overcast. Directions for making French seams are given in Chapter I. Two rows of gatherings are used along all the edges that are to be gathered. The finished hem should be the exact width given in the pattern instructions.

Sometimes these little dresses are trimmed with an embroidered star or other emblem such as are used on sailor suits. For appropriate designs for this purpose see the opposite page.