Fashion Design Drawing

Repeat the stitches until the button is securely fastened. Remove the pin, draw the button away from the material as far as possible and wind the working thread tightly sev Fashion Design Drawing - Buttonholes 7.jpg

eral times around the threads between the button and the material, thus forming a thread shank for the button. If a button is too closely sewed to the garment, it will not have room to rest easily in the buttonhole and will crowd the latter out of shape and make the spacing seem irregular. The loose sewing and the winding increase the durability of the work and lessen the strain on the button.

The first figure shows another way of sewing on a button in which the stitches are not crossed. This method is used in dress and coat making, as the stitches are considered more ornamental. The third figure shows the method of sewing on a shank button. Make the stitches parallel with the edge when sewing on this button so that the strain will come on the shank.

THE BOUND BUTTONHOLE is shown in Figure 54 A. The length and position of the buttonhole should be marked on the garment with basting cotton. A bias strip of self or contrasting material about seven-eighths of an inch wide is used for binding it. Sew the binding to the right side of the garment with running stitches an eighth of an inch from the buttonhole Fashion Design Drawing - Buttonholes 8.jpg

mark (Figure 54 B). Turn in the other three edges an eighth of an inch and press them flat (Figure 54 B).

The binding should be fully the length of the slash.

When it is sewed on and the edges pressed, cut the buttonhole in the garment. Be sure to cut a clean, straight hole.

Push the binding through to the wrong side of the garment and slip-stitch it to position in the sewing line of the right side. Slip-stitch the corners of the binding so that they will not fray. Figure 54 A shows the finished bound buttonhole.

The bound buttonhole can be used on wool, silk,, linen or cotton garments. It gives a finished look to a coat or dress and is particularly effective when the binding itself is in a contrasting color, though the bind Fashion Design Drawing - Buttonholes 9.jpg