Fashion Design Drawing

Begin the buttonhole stitch as in the first buttonhole, working down one side. When the outer end is reached, the stitches are taken on a slant, inserting the needle each time at a little different angle until the end is rounded. Continue the work on the other side. The inner end is finished with a bar tack. The different steps of this buttonhole are shown in the illustration.

THE TAILOR'S BUTTONHOLE is used for garments of heavy cloth, as the round end or eyelet provides a resting-place for the shank of the button or the stitches holding the button. Baste around the line of cutting so that the material will not slip, and cut the slit the desired length. At the outer end cut a small eyelet as shown in the top figure in the illustration, 51.

After cutting, the buttonhole

should be stranded so that the worked

edge of the buttonhole will be firm

Fashion Design Drawing - Buttonholes 3.jpg

and distinct. This may be done with two threads of twist. Tailors follow the plan of using cord formed of several strands of the buttonhole twist, or linen thread twisted together, or a gimp cord. An end of this cord or thread is secured at the inner end of the buttonhole between the fabrics, and the other end is fastened to the knee or some convenient place and kept taut by a slight strain upon the work as it is held in the hand.

By this strain the cord is kept straight and in position Just back of the edge of the buttonhole. The stitches are worked over the cord by the usual movements. After each stitch is drawn down, the loose twist should be picked up firmly by the thumb and forefinger quite near the stitch, and two or three circular twisting movements should be made so that the loop formed will settle securely and neatly into its proper position. Be careful to complete each stitch with uniform movements. When the eyelet is reached, the work is adjusted so that the stitches may be made at the Fashion Design Drawing - Buttonholes 4.jpg

proper slant. The stitches should radiate from the eyelet as the spokes do in a wheel.

The inner end of an eyelet buttonhole may be bar-tacked. Sometimes the bars are simply worked with an over-and-over stitch. This is done by passing the needle up through the fabric at one side of the bar and down through it at the other side until the bars are entirely covered with these stitches and the stays look like a fine cord. After the buttonholes are worked, their edges should be closely basted together by an over-and-over stitch made by pushing the needle up and down over the edges just back of the stitches. Then they should be pressed under a dampened cloth. In fact, all buttonholes should be pressed if the goods will permit. Before they are dry, a stiletto should be pushed up vigorously through each eyelet until the opening becomes perfectly round

and the stitches around its edges are regular and distinct.

When the bastings are removed, the buttonholes will be symmetrical in appearance.

BLIND LOOPS are used on garments fastened with hooks and eyes, to take the place of the eyes. The process of making them is shown in Fig. 52. Mark the position of the loop opposite the hook, knot the thread and bring the needle up through the material. Make a bar-tack the desired length by taking three or more stitches one over the other. Working from left to right, hold the thread down with the left thumb, and insert the needle, eye foremost, under the bar and over the thread. The use of the blunt end of the needle facilitates the work. Draw the thread up, letting the purl come to the lower edge of the loop. Repeat the stitches, covering the entire bar-tack, and fasten on the wrong side. Sometimes the bar-tacks are made in the form of a cross-stitch.