Fashion Design Drawing

The Buttonholes are made with eyelets as described and illustrated in Chapter II.

The Lining for the jacket is the next consideration. Cut the back by the pattern for the jacket, allowing a half-inch plait down the center, which keeps the lining from drawing the outside cloth out of shape. Baste this little plait down. Now secure the lining back into position on the inside of the jacket. Baste the raw edges at the side seams over the corresponding seams of the cloth, but do not have the bastings show through to the right side of the jacket. Do the same at the shoulder seams. At the neck edge clip the curve enough to make the lining lie smoothly; slip the raw edge under the collar and baste the latter down over it.

Each lining front is cut in one piece, with a dartlike plait allowed at the shoulder which graduates to nothing five inches below it. Baste each piece into position in the jacket. The raw edge at the side seam is turned in and hemmed down by hand, covering the raw edge of the back piece. It may be necessary to clip the edges slightly to prevent any possible drawing at the seams.

The raw edges down the front are, likewise, turned in and stitched down over the cloth facing by hand. At the shoulder, the seam of the back lining laps over the raw edge of the front piece. The top collar piece is then stitched down by hand.

The sleeve lining is cut by the sleeve pattern, the seams stitched and pressed open. Slip it into the jacket sleeve with corresponding seams together. At the wrist edge

turn in the lining and hem it to the cloth sleeve by hand. Hold the lining in place by running a basting thread around the sleeve about four inches from the upper edge. Lastly, turn under the upper edge of the lining, baste it down over the raw edges of the armhole and sew down by hand.

The lower edge of the jacket may now be closed in the same way; all basting threads that show are pulled out, and the jacket is given a final pressing wherever necessary.

Boys' suits should always be made of strong, durable materials of as good a quality as one can afford, for they get very hard usage, and a poor cloth will not only wear out quickly, but is also likely to stretch and lose its shape. For cold weather heavy serges and cheviots are about the best materials one can get. For the spring use lighter weight serges for every-day suits, and tweeds and homespuns for better wear. These last materials are extremely smart-looking, but they are loosely woven and are not practical for school suits. They are generally used in the light shades of gray and tan. In summer weather heavy linen crash is an excellent material for ordinary wear. The lighter linens on the order of a good-quality French linen are very nice for better suits.