A cloth facing, a little wider than the lapels, is basted to the right sides of the fronts. Stitch a seam across the lapel corner and down the front edge. Trim away the canvas from the seam as close as possible, and turn the facing back. Baste the edge flat, and stitch it down neatly three-eighths of an inch from the edge.

The shoulder and side seams joining the fronts and the back of the jacket may now be closed. Press these seams open. Turn up the lower edge of the jacket and baste it flat.

The Collar is cut from two pieces of the cloth and one of canvas. The cloth piece for the top of the collar is a seam's width wider all around than the canvas. Baste the latter two pieces together, and trace the turning line of the collar. The crescent-shaped space thus outlined is the part that stands up in the finished collar. To give it stability and strengthen the

curve, run several rows of stitching across it, parallel to the tracing. The other part

of the collar is covered with "padding stitches" (Fig. 324.) Now baste the top collar

piece over this foundation; turn the edges under and baste.

The collar is then basted to the jacket on the outside of the neck edge. Baste it on

carefully, avoiding any possible stretching out of shape. At the points where the collar

meets the lapels of the jacket, the canvas must be cut away to make a neat joining.

Fashion Design Drawing - Boys Suits 7.jpg

The Sleeves are cut, the seams stitched and pressed open. Turn the wrist edge up as far as the pattern allows, and baste it flat. Then run a line of stitching around it, as directed in the pattern instructions. Following the notches, baste the sleeves into position and try on the garment. If they set properly, they may then be stitched in by machine.

If cuffs are provided for, they are made separately, and slip-stitched to the sleeve over the wrist edge after the lining has been put in. (See page 54, Chapter X, " Children's Clothes.")

The Belt has an interlining of canvas, stitched in at the same time with the row of machine-stitching that finishes it three-eighths of an inch around the edge. The lining is then added by hand. Two buttonholes are made, two inches apart, at the round end of the belt, and two corresponding buttons are sewed on the straight end. An opening through which the belt is run is allowed under each box plait in the jacket.

Fashion Drawing Sections

Part-1 Part-2 Part-3 Part-4 Part-5