Fashion Design Drawing

Fashion Design Drawing - Boys Suits 4.jpg

The Front is closed by means of buttons and buttonholes whether in fly, the single lap, or double-breasted style. In case of a fly make a strip of lining, doubled, in which the buttonholes are worked. This strip is then basted to the overlapping front, one-fourth inch from the outer edge of the blouse, and stitched from the outside through all the thicknesses, on the line of the inner edge of the fly. Tack the fly between the buttonholes. With a visible closing, the eyelet buttonholes are used. See Chapter II. The lower edge of the blouse is hemmed.

The Sailor Collar should be turned under a seam's width around the outside edge, and all the trimming sewed on it before the collar is lined. Turn under the outside edges of the collar lining a seam's width and baste it to the wrong side of the collar with the edge of the lining about an eighth of an inch within the edge of the collar, keeping the corners straight and being careful not to stretch or pull the edge of the cloth. Baste the lining to the back and sides of the collar, then stitch, turn to the right side and press. Baste the cloth neck edge of the collar to the neck edge of the blouse, according to the notches, with the seam toward the under or outside of the blouse and stitch. Baste the lining neck edge over the seam. Hem it down by hand. Fig. 320.

The Sleeves may have a cuff or not, according to the pattern. The seams are stitched and finished like the seams of the blouse. Baste the sleeves into the armhole and try the blouse on before stitching by machine. Bind the raw edges at the armhole with a

bias strip of the lining or with seam-binding. tor illustrations see Chapters A, "Children's Clothes," and XI, "Sailor or Naval Suits.7'

A Belt, either of leather or of the blouse material, is worn with the Russian blouse suit. It is slipped through cloth straps which are fastened, according to the perforations, at each under-arm seam. When a belt of the material is used it should be stitched flat, to correspond to the stitching on the collar.

A NORFOLK JACKET is somewhat more like a coat, in that it is lined and has a more strictly tailored finish. In cutting, observe all the notches, perforations, etc., and mark the material accordingly.

The chalk or thread marks indicating the box plait are then brought together, and a large tuck stitched. Spread it out, bringing the sewing directly under the center line of the plait. Baste along both edges and press flat.

If preferred, the box plaits may be made separately, if the pattern does not allow for them. Turn under the side edges of the cloth three-quarters of an inch and baste. (See Fig. 322.) The plaits are then stitched to the jacket three-eighths of an inch from the edge.

Fashion Design Drawing - Boys Suits 5.jpg

A Pocket with a Lap is made in each side of the front piece, behind the box plait. For making the pocket see instructions on page 104, Chapter XX, "Pockets.'

The Yoke, if one is used, is cut by the pattern and basted in position with its lower edge turned under. Stitch it flat with a row of stitching three-eighths of an inch from the edge. Cut the cloth away from under it, and press.

Now face the fronts of the jacket with canvas from the shoulder, as shown in Fig. 323. The upper corners of the fronts, that are turned over to form the lapels, are made firm with padding stitches run through both cloth and canvas.