Fashion Design Drawing

The Side Pockets should be put in next. Complete instructions for making them will be found on page 106, Chapter XX, "Pockets."

Trousers Having no Fly Closing have the waistband divided into a front and back waistband, leaving an opening at each side of the trousers. In this case the extension on the side of the back pieces of the trousers is faced, thus forming the underlap for the opening. The loose edge of the pocket piece is then faced on both sides with the cloth, and two rows of stitching, a quarter of an inch apart close to the edge, give it a firm finish. Now the upper edges of the pocket are basted to the upper edge of the trousers front. (Fig. 317, page 128.)

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Make a bar, overcast or buttonholed, between the two rows of stitching, catching through the cloth, and both sides of the pocket at the top and at the bottom of the opening. The pocket may now be closed. Round off one or both of the corners, and, turning in

the seam with the raw edges toward the inside of the pocket, stitch securely. The Outside Seam of the trousers is closed next. In knickerbockers, it is stitched in a seam all the way down. The lower edge of the leg is gathered in a casing with an elastic. In trousers finished with a band the extension allowed at the lower part for an opening at the side is turned under for a facing on the upper side, and faced and used as an extension on the underside. The band can be fastened with a buckle or with a button and buttonhole. After stitching the seam, turn the raw edges toward the front. From the outside, run a line of stitching one-eighth of an inch from the seam.

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Now stitch and press open the inside seam of each leg. The two leg portions may then be joined, beginning the seam down the back at the waist, and extending it to the notches in the lower edge of the fly pieces, including in the seam the seams of the fly pieces below the notches. Press this seam open and baste over it, flat on the inside, a piece of tape or a bias strip. Stitch from the outside a row on each side of the seam. Turn the end of the tape over and hem neatly down at the end of the fly stitching. On the outside, at the end of the fly opening, make a strong stay-stitch or bar, to keep it from tearing out.

The Top Edge of the trousers is turned over a seam, and a strip of lining stitched to it, then basted down in a faced hem. A band, with the buttonholes worked in it with stout thread or twist, is basted over this faced hem, and from the right side stitched through both facing and band at the lower edge and the ends. A strong tack thread should catch the band and the facing between the buttonholes.

The Lower Edge of each trousers leg is hemmed up by hand with invisible stitches.

RUSSIAN BLOUSES for little boys' suits vary considerably in detail of style, but they are generally made without lining. They may or may not have a pocket; they may be perfectly plain or made with tucks or box plaits; with sailor collar or with a stand-up band, or to be worn with a linen collar. They may be trimmed with braid, chevrons and badges, with hand embroidery, or without either, as the case may require.

In cutting observe and mark all perforations and notches for seams, box plaits, pocket openings, etc. See Chapter X.

If a pocket is desired it should be put into the left-front piece before the seams are closed. Proceed as directed in the instructions for the pocket on page 104, Chapter XX, "Pockets."

Bind the raw edges of the front and back pieces at the seams with lining satin or seam-binding. Baste the pieces together and stitch. If preferred, a seam requiring no binding may be made by allowing a wider seam when cutting and arranging a lap seam, as explained in Chapter XIX, "Tailored Seams " Then press it flat and from the right side stitch an even row down on each side of the seam.