Fashion Design Drawing

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side of the strip of material, catching both edges down over it. With the catch-stitch, fasten down the edges to the lining, and the fold is ready for use. (Fig. 106.)

The Piped Fold is one in which a cord or piping (see page 32) has been applied to the edges with one or more rows of machine stitching that give it a tailored finish. (Fig. 107.)

Double Folds are made of bias strips cut twice the

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width desired for the finished band. Fold them over on the center line and baste them flat. Turn the two raw edges in and baste them together. Then join them neatly with slip-stitches, and apply to the garment by hand. If machine stitching is desired, baste the fold in place first and then stitch. These folds are frequently used as a trimming in the place of tucks. (Fig. 108.)

A Milliners' Fold is made by turning the top edge of the strip over one-half the width of the finished fold. Bring up the lower turned-under edge, covering the raw upper edge. Sew flat with fine running stitches. (Fig. 109.)

If the material is very sheer, it is a good plan to have a small strip of paper, not

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quite the width of the fold, to slip along within the fold as the work progresses. If pressing is necessary, use only a warm iron.

Crepe folds are cut on the straight of the goods, so that the crinkles will run diagonally.

Tailors' Straps are folded bands used to strap seams, or as an ornamental trimming on tailored garments. They may be cut on the bias, if of velvet or taffeta; crosswise if of woolen; lengthwise if of cotton materials. Fold the strip at the center and catch the raw edges together with loose whip-stitches as shown in Fig. 110. Spread out the fold and press it well. Baste into position on the garment and stitch by machine on both edges.

CORD PIPING is used to give firmness to an edge, or as a trimming for waists, skirts, etc. Fig. Ill, on the following page, illustrates the process of running in a cord intended for a trimming. Mark the trimming line for the cord with a colored thread. Then, holding the cord underneath with the left hand, enclose it in a